Avoiding terrorist strife & first sights of Thailand - Krabi & Ao Nang beach

While I was planning my last stop at Lankawi Islands in northwest Malaysia I received two alerts for travellers from Australia. A severe weather warning with cyclonic conditions would soon arrive in the northern Malaysia region and cross over the border into southern Thailand. The other related to personal security and advised not to travel through parts of southern Thailand. Apparently most of the far southern provinces of Thailand have a Muslim majority and since 2004 the ongoing fight for Muslim independence has seen many attacks by insurgents resulting in several thousand deaths with nearly half of them being civilians. I certainly did not want to add to the terrorists jihad quota and also received terrible news that two more Thai Buddhist monks were shot last week.

Muslim people told me in Krabi that they love Thai life and did not support these attacks. It’s unfortunate for them because we know that not all Muslim people are terrorists but certainly in more contemporary times most terrorists appear to be Muslim and more than happy to hurt their own.
Catching land transport across the boarder by train or bus for the 410km was not an option so I took Smarttravellers advice and caught a flight from Penang to Krabi city via the west coast taking me to the more safe and stable most northern Muslim province of Krabi. This would also provide a four day buffer from the impending cyclone. I never had any intentions of going to Phuket anyway and wanted to visit Ao Nang Beach and the Phi Phi Islands for some swimming/hiking and my first visit to a Thai Buddhist temple.

After exiting Krabi Airport I was approached by taxi drivers on the scam. They will take you 3/4 of the way and leave you with their local cousin who will take you for a world discovery tour of the last 1km for almost the same cost as the original fare so watch out for them. Thailand is known as the land of 1000 smiles but like any nation you need to be aware of the scammers too.

Songthaew

My friend Chris who lived in Thailand for a while and spoke the language confidently told me to catch the Songthaew. Her informed advice about a lot of places in Thailand and Malaysia has made the journey even more enjoyable. So a songthaew is a utility converted to carry passengers on bench seats. I loved loved it as the driver took you where you actually wanted to go, a third of the cost of the scammers and you meet locals and other travellers. It may not be as comfortable as a car or van but it’s fun.

At Ao Nang Beach I strategically placed myself to be close enough for the long-tail boats, cafes and local Buddhist monastery. The atmosphere here reminded me of Byron Bay in Australia as a popular backpackers location on the coast but many many more places to swim, eat and relax. It’s much cheaper as well and the food is fabulous. The next day I awoke to perfect weather with a calm sea so I headed off with a group of Germans I met on the songthaew the previous morning, to go to the islands for the day. As a group we decided to book the long-tail boat together as a force in numbers because the boat pilots have a reputation for only taking you to three of five destinations for your day trip that you paid for and then take you back directly to Ao Nang beach.
So we managed to haggle for a good price and told the pilot where we want to go with no change to the itinerary or we would go elsewhere. It was great to have a strong frauline to negotiate for me. Her tall stature and experience as a policewoman in Cologne helped a lot. Go girl!! One for the tourists.

On our way to Railay Beach

The boats are numerous so you have plenty of destination options. Be prepared to inhale some petrol fumes if the wind is blowing the wrong way. The engines are enormous - about the size of a large car engine and quite powerful.

Long-tail boat

Railay Beach was a first stop for a morning swim and relax under a 24 degree sun. The water is so clear that you can see quite a distance with tropical fish wandering around you.

Everyone comes for the Ao Nang beach sunset before the evening meal