Bangkok & Maeklong Railway Market

Many of us will remember watching our favourite Saturday morning music video programmes on TV. I think the mid 70’s through to the late 80’s were the best years for well-crafted performance music by artists that could actually sing as well as write unlike the duff duff duff talentless dance music that unfortunately permeates our space now in cars and the suburbs.

I remember one particular video clip called ‘One Night in Bangkok (CHESS) Murray Head’ written by the two gifted lads lads from ABBA, Benny Andersson and Björn Ulvaeus for the musical called Chess - catch it on YouTube. The musical was a metaphor for the ‘chess moves’ of the Cold War but also compared to the chances a tourist might take in Bangkok at night. I was also acutely aware of its reputation for traffic deadlock and glad I decided to leave the bicycle back in Australia.

After a full day visiting temples and testing the street food I stayed well clear of certain districts with suspect venues and journeyed down to the river for a much safer and wholesome experience of viewing the New Year’s fireworks. I found a cosy spot on the river amongst several million local folk and no surprise, many foreigners. I didn’t have to think about getting back to the hotel later as it was easy walking distance. No Tuk Tuk scooters needed. From the look of some foreigners I think they would be still finding their way home after I left for Chang Mai two days later.

If you thrive on nightlife and are an adrenalin junkie for traffic jams that New Dehli would be proud of then this is the space for you. I could certainly feel its passion for life and how it breathes.

It’s not all that though as it’s home to the head of the Thai government and the monstrous Grand Palace which is worth a visit. It is the official residence of the King although he lives in a smaller palace. Due to political unrest the constitution was suspended in 2014 after a military coup. From a tourist point of view you would think life is normal except for the ever present beret-wearing Thai army - don’t even think of challenging them. New Years day in Bangkok is not the space for an agoraphobic because there’s 1000s of devotees bringing gifts to the numerous shrines throughout the city. I personally like big open spaces but the gregarious part of me kicks in at times and quite adept with large crowded spaces - the caveat here is the need to recharge the ‘batteries’ after the event. Again a another wonderful cultural experience amongst the local citizens and so much food on offer too.

Chao Phraya River

On route to New Year’s celebration and dedications

Evening walk before Thai dance theatre

On my last day in Bangkok I decided to visit the Maeklong Railway Market about half a day’s travel and back southwest of Bangkok city - you have to see it to believe it. Breaks all the rules of occupational health and safety. Some markets have something special to attract you like the Chatuchak that spreads itself for up to 1km - just massive. The Meaklong spreads itself across a railway line and yes you probably guessed it’s an active railway service. The port itself has been active for some time but the train service only arrived (excuse the pun please 👀) around 1905 and used to freight goods back and forth. The market was allowed to co-exist as a vital space for locals and businesses and has become an important tourist attraction which boosts the local economy. That’s an interesting point because the authorities in Bangkok have started clamping down on street stalls throughout the city as part of a recent cleanup the streets programme to provide pedestrian access and deal with hygiene issues. The famous backpackers Khaosan Road has thwarted this action - for the moment. Apparently Bangkok has the envious reputation of having the best street food In the world which doesn’t surprise me. A Michelin-star rated street food vendor is now supplying Thai Airways.

So I disembarked from the train at the Maeklong Station (last on that line) then walked back to the markets for some lunch. Later the air horns started on the train so I got ready for a ‘safe’ view. The markets vendors start collapsing the material canopies above their produce and wait for the train to ‘squeeze’ through which passes over produce still on the ground without damaging it. To keep things under some sensible control the station master/conductor slowly walks in front of the train with flag in hand. Just unique and the vendors are so relaxed about the process. They know it’s another good day for them.